A Few Miles Down the Alentejo Coast. Milfontes.

Didn’t really feel like going far after Porto Covo. Not in the mood for a big drive. The map showed a few potential spots. Tried to check the parking situation from Google Maps. We had met some lovely fellow travellers, Sue and Heather and their respective Hubbies, Alan and Dennis (sorry ladies I can’t remember who belongs to who!!) and they had visited Vila Nova de Milfontes, just down the Southern Alentejo Coast. It’s a mere 20km away. That will do nicely. Our new friends had wild camped there last year but heard GNR we’re moving folk on of late. This is largely due to Motorhomers taking root and overstaying their welcome. Very unfair on the rest of us. We had heard a similar report from a local chap in Guincho. Also, it’s always been an unwritten rule that wild camping is only partaken out of season. We were told by the Guincho guy that this was now creeping into the Summer season and causing issues with locals and holiday makers. This certainly won’t be tolerated. We will lose all our lovely spots if the minority don’t stick to the rules. Come on guys, don’t take the mick! In Winter months the towns and villages welcome us, we put money in their tills. Let’s keep it that way! Anyway, we don’t want to take any risks and so we aim for a little campsite in town called Camping Milfontes. It has a good review on Camper Contact and is on the ACSI scheme. I am pleasantly surprised to find it’s only €13 per night with electricity and all services. The staff are lovely, it’s a good place and very central. Milfontes is the main and most attractive resort on the Alentejo Coast. I can imagine it gets very busy in high season but now it has a really relaxed, laid back feel to it. The little indoor market is held most days and the excellent Butchers is just across the road. It’s the jolliest market ever, such happy people! We bought a couple of plump, very fresh looking Mackerel for supper.

Milfontes sits on the banks of the Rio Mira. The attractive, whitewashed streets of the old town huddle around an ivy-clad 16th Century Castle facing the estuary. It was apparently built to defend the town from North African Pirates.

There’s a little ferry runs from the slipway by the castle over to the opposite, long, sandy beach, Praia Furnas. There are some great, very reasonably priced, places to eat here. Would highly recommend A Fateixa on the river, below town and O Dunas Mill, again with splendid views. Beyond the mouth of the estuary, the ocean breakers are fierce, huge rolling waves sending up spray, exhilarating to watch. It’s wild and very beautiful.

This place was a great recommendation, a gem of a find, thanks chaps!

Back at base, I’m making a marinade for my plumptious swimmers! Smoked paprika (sweet or hot, I’m using hot), crushed garlic, Seasalt, olive oil, juice and zest of a lemon and chopped parsley. At home you could give this a quick blast in the blender. I do have a small blender in the van but I can’t be bothered so I just give it a pounding in my mortar and pestle, job done. Rinse the cavities of the fish well, stuff with the marinade then spread the rest on the body. I’m cooking these beauties on the barbecue but they work just as well grilled or baked in a tight foil parcel. They’re done in no time. Serving mine with buttered, roasted new potatoes and a rocket, walnut and avocado salad. I still have a supply of walnut oil from the Dordogne. I think I will cry when it runs out!!

Off for a lovely hot shower now before we dine and I might even blow the cobwebs off my straighteners and try and tame my matted locks!

See you on the road my dear friends and followers. Hope you’re not freezing your extremities off back in England, I heard snow was forecast. Yuk, we try not to say the S word here!! Wrap up!

Cheerio for now. Much love ❤️❄️☀️


  1. Hey not knowing where exactly you are abc being useless at geography
    But we went to this place on one of our many visits to editorial etc
    My brother took us to
    Portinho da Arrábida, Portugal
    If you can get there it’s worth a visit
    It’s stunning and beachside there is an amazing cafe that does amazing fish stews abd things with smelly cheese and bread
    We had one the best holidays here with my brother and his wife
    Try it
    If I recall the road to the beach isxtiny
    Prob best park at top of bay and walknor cycle down
    Have fun


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